I was surprise and honor to be invited to celebrate HariRaya with my rideshare friend and her family.
I was a bit nervouswith my limited Bahasa Melayu and concern about being invasive on aday usually spent in company of close people. Everyone was nice,shovelling manis (sweets) and local delicacies my way, "you must trythis." There were an abundance of food. My favorites included nasibiryani , with huge chucks of sauteed pineapples and curry, nasikerabu (blue rice cooked in coconut and served with ikan "fish" andcoconut stuffed local jalapeno looking pepper), dakup (desert ricewrapped in banana leaf), and ketumpat.As we made the round to each house, you were expected to sample morefood from a layout of a dishes and a dozen varieties of cookies. Onmore than one occassion throughout the indulgent day I felt my stomachwould burst.
I got back at the inn at midnight and then ushered to indoor futsalwith some new friends until the early hours in the morning. Thehighlight of the night was watching an underestimated little chubby kid kicks big boys butts: three winning goals.
Monday, October 30, 2006
Saturday, October 28, 2006
Monday, October 23, 2006
Reverse Trend
While the design of the initially complex pattern Indian patang becomes increasingly simplified, the design of the wau takes on a different direction.
The traditional wau initially consisted of a few basic colors and has evolved to a multi-tissue colored tapestry of meticulously papercutted creeper motifs intricately embroidered in silver or gold. I suspect part of the reason is due to the increasing reverence of the wau for its esthetic value. Adhering to introduced motifs (i.e. wau merak from Johor Bahru can only have one of two motifs, the betel nut or pepper leaf creeper) is a requisite in design competitions, where the most intricately designed waus are brandished. Fortunately, function is not forgotten, and design competions also include the criteria of flight along with beauty.
While the design of the initially complex pattern Indian patang becomes increasingly simplified, the design of the wau takes on a different direction.
The traditional wau initially consisted of a few basic colors and has evolved to a multi-tissue colored tapestry of meticulously papercutted creeper motifs intricately embroidered in silver or gold. I suspect part of the reason is due to the increasing reverence of the wau for its esthetic value. Adhering to introduced motifs (i.e. wau merak from Johor Bahru can only have one of two motifs, the betel nut or pepper leaf creeper) is a requisite in design competitions, where the most intricately designed waus are brandished. Fortunately, function is not forgotten, and design competions also include the criteria of flight along with beauty.
Wau Puyuh
Wau Bulan
23 Oct 2006
Bas 10 took me to Kampung Kichang, renown for its traditional kitemakers. I arrive at the kitemaker centre to find out from' Ra' her kitemaster father has passed away a year ago. Another male (either uncle or brother) also knows how to make kites but he is not keen to continue the tradition.
I told her I would have liked to have met him and ask if she had any of his kites on display. There were none, all had been sold. The ones in the shop were predominately the manufactured non-flying souvenir types.
I returned back to the road to be punctually passed up by the bus-the driver waving off my signal comically . Not a good stopping area? Rather than waiting for another bus at the next stop, I continue to jalan jalan whereupon I stumble upon a crowd of people. Three men shuffled flaming coconut husks from one clay pot to another. They were making akok (coconut egg treat) the traditional way, using husks to heat and I was lucky as this was the last day they were doing it.
A local couple making off with purchase pause to ask me about my origins. As coincidence would have it, he was wearing a Pasir Gudang international kite festival shirt. KB was as far away from PG within penn Malaysia without crossing borders. I enthusiastically told him I just came from there , drop the names of mutual friends, and ask if he was a kitemaker. "No, a seasoned flyer. But you are in luck, the best kitemaker lives right by here." In fact, after he left, the akok makers said the footpath behind the kiosk leads to his kampung "village." Seeing my eagerness, they teased I would be kidnapped if I headed that way and better stay put and extended some akok for me to sample.
I kindly decline because I was fasting like mostly everyone else for Ramadan but still much to their surprise. I got in queue to buy some famous akok for my hosts in KB meanwhile doing my best to field questions about how much Malay I know, my interest in kites, reasons for "puasa"fasting, and my experience of it. The akok crowd who greeted my initial curiosity amusingly and warily sent me off with a friendly farewell of smiles and waves. I made a mental note to arrange a proper visit with kitemaker post-hari raya and backtracked to catch my bas.
Friday, October 20, 2006
Thursday, October 19, 2006
Sunday, October 15, 2006
October 1-15, 2006
Brunei flyers on display.bus station, Brunei Borneo
Kadazan native readjusts the bridle on my rama-rama "butterfly" kite
Locals so far have demonstrated an uncanny ability to accurately to tie bridles and
balance the kites, hence I was surprise to find the bridle reattached to the wrong face.
Kadazan guide taking advantage of windy moment.
Mt. Kinabalu, Sabah Borneo
Wednesday, October 04, 2006
A Day in the Life
4 Oct 06
Out of the guesthouse, I walk into the all too familiar stickiness ofthe tropics-cough-except with the added challenge of breathing. Icould myopically make out river boats in the distant. The visibilityand air quality continues to deteriorate (already pass unhealthylevels) in Kuching due to an enveloping haze cause by the forest fires index (API) reached 800 in 1997-98. Anywhere above 300 is hazardous;currently, the levels are around 150s. I mentally add the purchase ofa respiratory mask on list of today\'s agenda.The locals don\'t seem toomuch affected; setting up hawker stalls and bustling along with theusual day to day activities.
Kuching is a varied and diverse city. While the population consistspredominately of Chinese and Malay, there are at least 26 ethnicgroups present in Kuching. According to my hosts, the dayaks arelabeled according to area of occupation and grounds of retreats fromthe headhunters. These days the indigenous societies are classifiedinto three main groups: Ibans (Sea Dayaks), Bidayuhs (Land Dayaks),and Orang Ulu (upriver people). The last includes Penan, Kayan,Kelabit, Berawan, Lu Bawang, and Kenyah. An enormous selection ofnative handicrafts are on display in the shops lining Jalan MainBazaar. If there is a chance of finding a Sarawakian kite, it would bein one of these shops.
-----A Malay guide waiting for clients on sampan jetty on the kampung(village) outskirts confidently insists trad. Kites can be found onthe main souvenir strip: easy.Except I have spent a good part of 2nd evening in town and this daycombing gift shops and art galleries to no success. The shopowners aretypically Chinese. Not only do not carry Sarawakian kites amongsttheir stock but they have never seen one. A few inform me that Ishould be able to find some by visiting the traditional longhousevillage but they are also the same ones that misdirect me to othershops.
Just when I was about to call my search off, a passing localpatron directs me down a jalan (road) leading to the mosque.Anticipating another false hope, I ask him several times to test hiscertainty. He press, "yes yes, I am sure layang layang, that means", kites lah, yeah sure lah those things you fly with la, down that way."
I head through the Little India, transverse pass the numerous hawkerstalls that have since increased since the morning selling foodstuffsto those breaking their fast at sunset, continue pass langsat stands,toyshops, and then, beginning to suspect another dead end yet hangingon to an inkling of hope, I spotted there hanging outside an ice creamcafe, were layang-layang. Not one, but 4 types-I practically flipped.
Aside from the wau, there were 3 other distinctive shapes.The wau consisted of three basic colors and noticeably absent of anelaborate template seen on those in KL\'s central market. I tried todetermine the origins. The shopkeeper guessed they were fromIndonesia. He consulted neighboring shopkeeper who said they werelocal.
I asked if they might be from India. "ah yea sama sama...kindof same but different." a 3rd generation India stated. Soon it becamea full blown public debate, passing locals joined in to offer theiropinions.
There is no kitemaster; making kites such as these are commonknowledge. The trick is adjusting the bridle. A local dubbed"computer" by his friends disappeared and came back with string whichhe then handed over to me. He described how the apex of the bridletriangle where line attached had to meet corner to corner.He then made off directly into traffic with the kites laughing widesmiled. I laugh too but frightened by how oblivious everyone was tothe oncoming traffic I suggested we go across the street to waterfrontstrip.
Computer agreed it was a good idea and said he wanted to comealong to accompany me.I was excited to finally play with the kites. As it turns out computerwas equally eager. There was hardly any wind. I quickly learn that thekite did not need much to leave the ground.
Quick pacing generated just enough wind to lifet the kite. I watch as computer ran back and forth all giggles and childlike, watching the kite tail behind him. It made me smile and eager to feel the kitestring in myown hands. Computer handed it over briefly but soon dominated againwhen the kite came down. Later he thanked me for stopping by for hehas not fly the kite for awhile and started back towards the roti (eggpastry eaten with dahl) cafe.
I walked him back to the shop, picked up another kite and hurried backto the waterfront to set it in flight in the dying hours of light. I ran in circles back and forth along a stretch on the waterfront tryingto keep the kite in flight as the locals cheered on. For the first time, I did not notice the haze (neither the perspiration running),absorbed in wheeling string out and keeping the kite up.
4 Oct 06
Out of the guesthouse, I walk into the all too familiar stickiness ofthe tropics-cough-except with the added challenge of breathing. Icould myopically make out river boats in the distant. The visibilityand air quality continues to deteriorate (already pass unhealthylevels) in Kuching due to an enveloping haze cause by the forest fires index (API) reached 800 in 1997-98. Anywhere above 300 is hazardous;currently, the levels are around 150s. I mentally add the purchase ofa respiratory mask on list of today\'s agenda.The locals don\'t seem toomuch affected; setting up hawker stalls and bustling along with theusual day to day activities.
Kuching is a varied and diverse city. While the population consistspredominately of Chinese and Malay, there are at least 26 ethnicgroups present in Kuching. According to my hosts, the dayaks arelabeled according to area of occupation and grounds of retreats fromthe headhunters. These days the indigenous societies are classifiedinto three main groups: Ibans (Sea Dayaks), Bidayuhs (Land Dayaks),and Orang Ulu (upriver people). The last includes Penan, Kayan,Kelabit, Berawan, Lu Bawang, and Kenyah. An enormous selection ofnative handicrafts are on display in the shops lining Jalan MainBazaar. If there is a chance of finding a Sarawakian kite, it would bein one of these shops.
-----A Malay guide waiting for clients on sampan jetty on the kampung(village) outskirts confidently insists trad. Kites can be found onthe main souvenir strip: easy.Except I have spent a good part of 2nd evening in town and this daycombing gift shops and art galleries to no success. The shopowners aretypically Chinese. Not only do not carry Sarawakian kites amongsttheir stock but they have never seen one. A few inform me that Ishould be able to find some by visiting the traditional longhousevillage but they are also the same ones that misdirect me to othershops.
Just when I was about to call my search off, a passing localpatron directs me down a jalan (road) leading to the mosque.Anticipating another false hope, I ask him several times to test hiscertainty. He press, "yes yes, I am sure layang layang, that means", kites lah, yeah sure lah those things you fly with la, down that way."
I head through the Little India, transverse pass the numerous hawkerstalls that have since increased since the morning selling foodstuffsto those breaking their fast at sunset, continue pass langsat stands,toyshops, and then, beginning to suspect another dead end yet hangingon to an inkling of hope, I spotted there hanging outside an ice creamcafe, were layang-layang. Not one, but 4 types-I practically flipped.
Aside from the wau, there were 3 other distinctive shapes.The wau consisted of three basic colors and noticeably absent of anelaborate template seen on those in KL\'s central market. I tried todetermine the origins. The shopkeeper guessed they were fromIndonesia. He consulted neighboring shopkeeper who said they werelocal.
I asked if they might be from India. "ah yea sama sama...kindof same but different." a 3rd generation India stated. Soon it becamea full blown public debate, passing locals joined in to offer theiropinions.
There is no kitemaster; making kites such as these are commonknowledge. The trick is adjusting the bridle. A local dubbed"computer" by his friends disappeared and came back with string whichhe then handed over to me. He described how the apex of the bridletriangle where line attached had to meet corner to corner.He then made off directly into traffic with the kites laughing widesmiled. I laugh too but frightened by how oblivious everyone was tothe oncoming traffic I suggested we go across the street to waterfrontstrip.
Computer agreed it was a good idea and said he wanted to comealong to accompany me.I was excited to finally play with the kites. As it turns out computerwas equally eager. There was hardly any wind. I quickly learn that thekite did not need much to leave the ground.
Quick pacing generated just enough wind to lifet the kite. I watch as computer ran back and forth all giggles and childlike, watching the kite tail behind him. It made me smile and eager to feel the kitestring in myown hands. Computer handed it over briefly but soon dominated againwhen the kite came down. Later he thanked me for stopping by for hehas not fly the kite for awhile and started back towards the roti (eggpastry eaten with dahl) cafe.
I walked him back to the shop, picked up another kite and hurried backto the waterfront to set it in flight in the dying hours of light. I ran in circles back and forth along a stretch on the waterfront tryingto keep the kite in flight as the locals cheered on. For the first time, I did not notice the haze (neither the perspiration running),absorbed in wheeling string out and keeping the kite up.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)